The Collar Guide
Evolution of the Modern Collar
Collars initially served as decorative elements during the Edwardian era, functioning as accessories until the turn of the 20th century. However, the predecessors of contemporary collars were detachable collars.
Invented by Hannah Lord Montague in New York in 1827, detachable collars emerged due to the extensive resources and time required for laundering undergarments. Since most parts of the shirt remained concealed beneath outerwear, cuffs and collars were more susceptible to dirt and grime. To maintain an appearance of cleanliness, gentlemen frequently replaced only these specific sections of their shirts.
Detachable collars and cuffs were fastened with specialized buttons called studs, with two studs for the collar (front and back) and additional studs for the cuffs (one for each sleeve). These removable collars facilitated separate laundering, thereby prolonging the lifespan of shirts. Even with the rise of mass-produced garments, detachable collars remained a staple in men’s attire.
Initially crafted from cotton and linen and stiffened with starch, detachable collars boasted a crisp, refined aesthetic that soon became synonymous with formal wear. Formal collars reached towering heights of up to three inches, albeit hindering movement, which led to the development of wing collars – hard collars with downward-folded front edges, still favored for tuxedos to this day.
White detachable collars transitioned from formal occasions to business and leisure settings. The pristine white hue of these collars provided a striking contrast to vibrant shirts, leading to the coining of the term “white collar worker” to denote business professionals as office roles proliferated in the 1900s.
During World War I, collars relinquished their stiffness, giving rise to detachable spread collars and softer, extended flat collars incorporated into uniforms for enhanced comfort. The comfort and convenience of these softer collars made it challenging for soldiers to revert to their rigid predecessors, sparking a heated fashion debate. Traditionalists advocated for the retention of stiff collars in men’s wardrobes, but as living standards improved and clothing became more accessible and easier to launder, detachable collars gradually gave way to attached ones. By then, shirt collars had evolved into symbols of distinction, reflecting both status and personality. Today, collars are worn for both formal and casual occasions, designed for comfort and style (particularly ours at Xpress Fashion).
While the necessity of collars may still be subject to debate, their ability to frame the face elegantly is undeniable. Understanding the distinctions between collars, such as the Cutaway and the Kent, can significantly influence your shirt selection.
How to Choose the Right Collar
Collars serve as a frame for your face, imparting personality to your attire and complementing your facial features from the shoulders up. At Xpress Fashion, our most popular collar styles include the Kent, Cutaway, Full Spread, Mandarin, and Wing Collars. The choice of collar often depends on customer preference and face shape, with the Cutaway being the preferred option due to its contemporary appeal and universal flattery.
Collar selection is typically based on de-emphasizing dominant facial features. For instance, spread collars complement narrow faces, while narrower collars enhance rounder physiognomies. Additionally, collar size and length can accentuate the wearer’s shoulders and head, with larger collars complementing pronounced face shapes and smaller collars harmonizing with smaller heads and shoulders. The length of the collar also contributes to the attire’s formality, with smaller collars lending a more modern and casual aesthetic.
How to Choose the Right Collar
Kent Collar:
Standard in business attire, with a narrow gap between collar points. Ideal for smaller tie knots and suits rounder faces.
Cutaway Collar:
Slightly wider than Kent, it’s generally flattering for most face shapes.
Full Spread Collar:
Featuring a large gap between points, creating a distinctive horizontal line. Popular in bespoke fashion, especially suitable for longer faces.
Button Down Kent:
Offers a casual vibe with buttons to secure collar points. Face shape is less critical as it’s often worn open.
Hidden Button Down Kent:
Concealed buttons maintain collar structure with a slight inward rounding along the band. Provides a balance between neatness and casualness.
Mandarin Collar:
A casual option with a single fabric strip fastened by a button, not a turn-down style.
Wing Collar:
Reserved for formal occasions like tuxedos and bow ties. Wings should be tucked behind the bow tie.
Complements smaller collar wings when worn without a tie.
For personalized guidance on selecting the perfect collar for you, feel free to reach out. Remember, the most common issue men encounter with collars is discomfort, often due to selecting a size too small. Opting for bespoke shirts ensures a perfect fit and unparalleled comfort.
